AT4@40

 Another hostel with no wifi, so no pictures until I end this trip at Delaware Water Gap. Ridiculous weather, going from 3 days in the 70s and an 81 degree day to 3 nights in a row below freezing, rain and sleet and snow squalls and wind. Some spring. Interesting people, plus black snakes, a porcupine, and lots of rocks. 220 miles from Harpers Ferry, 50 more to go.

 The bugs and heat and no shade are clearly getting to me, but now my body (ankles, banged up legs, and hip) have started a chorus of complaint. So I will just walk to the Delaware Water Gap and stop this iteration. Another 7 or 8 days depending on weather, then bus to NYC and return north. Most importantly, I can be more useful back home babysitting. Daughter in law Emily will be having surgery April 26 rather than mid-May, so Miles will need help with the kids sooner. Glad to oblige since that is the best excuse to quit.  Have seen a few chestnut shells along the trail. Likely from a tree that survived the blight just long enough to make nuts for a season or two, but destined to die off. Cell service spotty out here in the boonies, so this blog will pause. Might add photos and wrapup if and when. 

 Slacked 9 miles yesterday, 9 miles today, had to persuade a fisherman to drive me back to town when my shuttle couldn't make it until late (and barely had cellphone service down from the ridge trail on the valley). 80 degrees and the gnats are out. Third straight night at the hostel and the Pub, time to leave. And it's hiker midnight and goodnight   Chief and Rabbit Long coal trains role by frequently, hauling anthracite (hard rock coal, best quality, low sulphur and "cleanest" burning), one had just gone screeching by.

Very cold but not windy so not quite as bad as previous night, but still didn't sleep well. Only 11 miles to town so dawdled, and a day hiker came in at 7:30 and proceeded to pull out his ancient Svea stove (same type we carried in 1982) so a gear head retrospectively, collecting old style camping stuff. Hiked out, down to valley then up next ridge over, and the famous PA rocks begin in earnest. Warming, and when I stop for lunch the first mosquito lands on my arm. Had already seen a few bees and worms. Long rocky ridge walk, then steep (need I say rocky?) down to Duncannon and the broad Susquehanna river rolling by, very high but not in flood. To Kind of Outdoorsy store and hostel, meet a guy staying there with car who drives me to grocery store for the price of a few pieces of cooked chicken.  Buy 4 days worth of food, back to hostel to find Chief checking in, planning a slack back tomorrow. I say I'm in, then we go out to pub for dinner. Sadly the Doyle is closed, soon to re...

 Very cold last night, glad I had the hand warmers -- one at my feet helped, the other on various parts during the night, but awake a lot. Expecting a colder night tonight, frost likely.  18 plus today, crossing the Cumberland Valley. Sleet squalls in the morning, blustery wind all day, mucky trail crossing farmland and over big highways (PA turnpike, etc), lots of car noise despite the bucolic settings. Did get warm briefly at cafe in Boiling Springs with tea and big muffin 4 miles into day. Saw 10 or so deer cavorting in cornfield. Tiring day, back still getting tight at end of another long day on my feet, need to stretch out after dinner. But feel ok all in all - just moving along with few chances to sit. Came upon a black snake, no logical reason to be most of the way out of its den that I could see. End of day finally climbed up out of valley, steeply towards shelter. I was warned that this rock bench harbored copperheads -- more likely rattlesnakes but none out this cold...

 Just shy of 16 miles but can feel it tonight, back tight and can't wait to stretch out and get warm in my sleeping bag. Very cold night ahead. Reflecting on the hikers I've met, it's clear that the trail attracts many different people, but it mostly brings out the goodness in folks, a shared camaraderie and caring. This is my community, this is my church.  Didn't sleep that well at hostel, raining heavily during the night, misting in morning and a 9am departure when rain finally ended, except a few sprinkles in the first few hours. Wet trail, rocky in patches, long lunch after 9 miles at store just off trail on Rt PA34. Picked up some hand warmers (nod to So Far So Good). Sun and clouds, warming up then cooling quickly, more up and down and rocky stretches, including several "rock mazes" fun to navigate but tiring and slowing me down. I encountered lots of day hikers, including two mid 50s women Jere and Jul (short for Juliet) out for long walks today. I assu...