I pushed the final 20 waterless miles into the Delaware Water Gap on the 22nd, 3 weeks after starting. Tough trip, felt like running a marathon that last day, knees still a bit sore 3 days later. 270 miles, 3 zero days, several short slacking days. 7 years ago I made it from Harpers Ferry to Bear Mt and the Hudson in about the same number of days. Challenging weather this go round, teaching me that I may need to rethink/upgrade gear (which worked just fine 3 years ago finishing off AT3): tent, sleeping bag, stove, etc.
And these Altra Lone Peak shoes made it though Maine 3 years ago and now PA, and are officially retired (after multiple regluing/shoe gooing of toe caps)
Double rainbow at Rausch Gap, where this black snake slid down from rafters where it had been checking the bird nests for eggs, then disappeared into the foundation. Obviously no mice in this shelter!
Next day snow flurries, walking into Port Clinton on Easter Sunday. Had to scramble to hitch (and then paid gas money to the guy who thankfully picked me up) to Walmart for resupply, and then search for stove fuel when Walmart surprisingly didn't have denatured alcohol, finding an automotive store open on Easter for "yellow HEET" -- methyl alcohol fuel treatment that does double service as stove fuel. Stayed at town pavilion, setting up tent on the platform to try to stay warm. No water, nothing seemed open in the town, even the outdoor tap at the one hiker friendly house noted in the guide book was turned off and no one home, as Squirrel and I walked past several "hikers not welcome" signs at houses, hoping to collect water for the 4 of us back at the pavilion. He noticed that the social club attached to the fire station amazingly seemed open, so we knocked and JJ the bartender gave us water, but apologized saying that she was alone and since only members can sign in guests we couldn't come in. She thought her boss might send her home early if no one showed, but suggested we check back in a few hours. Which we did and found it still open and with a welcoming crew, once they warmed to us. Happy hour was liberally interpreted, with cards that had 5 tabs -- you opened one to see what your drink cost. I bought first round, only paying full price for Squirrel's soda, getting a beer for me and a mixed drink for the member who signed us in for 25 cents each, $2.50 total. I doubled that as tip, and that was the last money I spent that night. Squirrel bought the next round, and then the guy who signed us in sent me a free beer. Squirrel had to take some food back for himself, his dog Texas and GG, so we left, only to run into Keener coming down the street looking for a glass of wine. I assured her that she was unlikely to find anything drinkable at the club, and turned around and walked back with her so she would have company (and order something more appropriate to the situation -- bourbon and ginger ale). Again warmly greeted, she bought the first round, bartender gave her a double, and then another plus free beer for me. And free snacks and popcorn. Happy times. And then back to pavilion a bit drunk to get through another freezing night.
Keener left the next morning by 5:30, before I even got up. Guess that's why she's called "keener" -- certainly more than me! I left at 8, hoping to get over the rocks and climb up and past the Pinnacle, highest point in PA before the rain and snow started after 2. Which I managed, then just had to walk down wood roads for last hour or so in rain and sleet to Eckville Shelter -- an actual cabin with a door. Keener had stopped there as well, arriving long before the weather moved in. It snowed that night, so glad to be out of the wind, not in an open shelter or tent. Keener left at 6:30 the next morning since she needed to get back to her car parked at a hostel 11 miles away and jump ahead to the next bit she was doing. From Colorado now, she's only hiking for a week before driving south to meet a friend from NC where she used to live. I dawdled, left 9:30, and followed her footsteps over the cold, windy, rough, rocky trail.
Stopped at the nice but tiny hostel, minimal but happy to be warm, clean and laundered. Then 3 more days doing the last 50 miles of Painsylvania, cold at first but warming up slowly. And ever rocky, no shade and scarce water. Down and up at Lehigh Gap, across the Palmerton Superfund wasteland, not much left of the zinc processing plant down in the valley, curious what they will do with it once the site is cleaned up. Last day was 20 miles, felt like a marathon at end. At DWG stayed once again at the Church of the Mountain hostel (4th time in 40 years), hung out with Greased Pig (who was hobbit like with gnarly, enlarged feet he was massaging life back into) and had beer and dinner at the Deer Park Inn (and jazz club). And the next day crowded bus to NY Port Authority and then a Peter Pan bus back to Northampton, masked all the way.
So, harder than ever, feeling the cold more than ever, with rain, snow, and even several 70/80 plus degree days that brought the bugs out early, and more sore than I remember. Glad to be done (sounds familiar, like the Southern Tier bike trip last fall). But as always glad to have done it, no injuries beyond banged up/tired legs. My fourth and definitely final hike through PA. Amen.
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